A Note from the Editor

So, you’ve been slowly building a little jewelry collection. Nothing wild - a few good thrift finds, some lucky eBay scores, maybe a slightly haunted estate sale piece that smells like talcum powder and unresolved family drama. You’re just vibing. And then your favorite chain breaks.

No problem, right? Just get a new one. Easy.

Except it’s not. Suddenly you’re eight tabs deep into Etsy, scrolling through endless listings: curb, box, figaro, snake, wheat, Singapore, something called a popcorn chain that looks like an anxiety attack in metal form. Every single one looks kind of right but also somehow completely wrong. You keep thinking, Surely I’ve seen this chain before, why can’t I find it? Welcome to the world of chains.

...and from Carrnot

In the world of costume jewelry, chain styles parade around like they matter. The cable chain is your classic oval-link type—solid, unassuming, the kind you forget mid-sentence. Curb chains lie flat and interlock like they’re trying too hard to impress your grandmother. Rope chains twist dramatically, like Oz tangled in yarn—flashy, impossible to unknot. Box chains are all square precision, useful for pendants and people who alphabetize their spice racks.

Carrnot is our AI Archivist. Statements she makes may not be accurate. Let us know how she did in the comments.

Cable vs. Rolo vs. Wait, Aren’t These the Same?

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Let’s start with the one that causes the most collective brain fog:

Cable chains, Rolo, Oval Link (The biggest lookalikes)

Close-up of various gold chains on a terracotta surface, including oval link, cable, textured rolo, and small rolo styles. Highlights subtle variations in common vintage chain types often confused in Chain identification. — From top to bottom: Oval Link, Cable Link, Round Cable link, Rolo large link, Rolo Small link

A basic cable chain is made of identical round or oval links. That’s it. It’s like the default chain - the plain bagel of the jewelry world. If you drew a chain in Microsoft Paint, it would probably be this. But then you get into oval links, which are technically just longer cable links... and then rolo chains, which are basically cables but rounder and chunkier and usually feel a little fancier for reasons no one can fully explain.

So: cable = simple. Rolo = puffed-up cable with a gym membership. Oval = stretched cable, probably insecure about being mistaken for something else. If you’re trying to replace a dainty chain that held a pendant and didn’t immediately snap, it was probably one of these - and if it was sturdy but still cute, probably a rolo.

Also, if you’re at a flea market and casually refer to a rolo as a cable, someone might correct you. Loudly. Just FYI.

Curb Chains: The Overachievers

Assortment of curb chains in various finishes and sizes displayed on a concrete slab. Includes blackened heavy curb, thick Cuban curb, polished gold curb, and small tight curbs in gold and silver. Highlights the broad range of curb chain styles in vintage jewelry — Left to Right: Round Curb, Cuban, right 4 are Curbs

Curb chains are where things start to spiral. Technically, they’re just interlocking links that have been twisted so they lie flat. That’s the whole definition. But in practice, it’s like saying jeans are just pants made of denim. Okay, sure, but are we talking skinny jeans, bootcut, distressed, high-rise, low-rise, light wash, dark wash, vintage Levi’s from 1994 that feel like actual treasure?

Same problem with curbs.

They can be paper-thin or borderline medieval. Some are super smooth; others are edgier than me in high school. A Cuban chain? That’s just a curb that’s been leveled up - thicker, heavier, more intentional. Think curb chain, but make it bold.

You’ll see words like open curb or close curb or curb with beveled edge and it all sounds very technical, but most of it boils down to: how flat is it? How wide are the gaps? Does it look like something a teenager would wear or something you’d layer with a vintage charm necklace?

Box Chains, Rope Chains, Paperclip Chains (The Not-So-Wild Cards)

Close-up of five gold chains draped over a cream fabric roll, showcasing a variety of common vintage chain styles including box chain, rope chain, and paperclip chain. The image highlights the transition between link types and how subtle variations in shape and construction define chain classifications. — Top to Bottom: Box Chain, Rope, Paperclip, Rope, Box chain

Once you escape Curbville, you hit a small group of chains that are, thankfully, kind of what they sound like.

Box chains are made of square links, so they look neat and geometric. Very tidy. Very satisfying. They’re solid enough to hold a pendant without feeling delicate, but not so chunky they take over the whole look.

Rope chains are twisted, literally. The links spiral around each other, creating something that kind of looks like an actual rope, but shinier and more dramatic. These are the chains people describe as sparkly even when there are no stones involved, just because of how they catch light.

And paperclip chains? Yeah, they’re trendy. Oversized, elongated links, usually oval or rectangular. They kind of resemble-shockingly-a paperclip. Imagine if a box chain went to design school and got really into clean lines and minimalism. That’s a paperclip chain. They’re having a moment, which means you’ll see a million slight variations that are all technically different but also kind of the same.

So that’s the guide. Or at least, a start. If nothing else, it might help you make slightly more informed guesses while frantically comparing chains online and wondering if Singapore is a type of twist or just a typo.

Either way, good luck out there.

And may you never confuse a cable with a rolo again. (Just kidding. We all will.)

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