If identifying turquoise feels overwhelming at first, don’t worry, it gets easier with time and practice. Before long, you’ll be spotting the real thing from across a thrift store. And yes, enjoying that quiet, smug satisfaction when informing someone their brooch is howlite, not turquoise. The best tip? Get your hands on real turquoise, even something small: a ring, a bracelet, even a single bead. Having a real example makes all the difference.
Turquoise is the diva of desert stones—dramatic, moody, and high-maintenance. It chips if you sneeze at it wrong, turns green when you sweat, and spends most of its life being impersonated by howlite in bad wigs. A real turquoise piece is like a true friend—rare, flawed, and inevitably more expensive than expected.
Fake turquoise comes in tiers, like a bad wedding cake.
Under a good light, Faux turquoise exposes itself like a bad paint job on a car. True turquoise should be matte with an almost waxy surface. Some designers do polish and coat their turquoise but there should still be a natural stone surface (like a marble tile) rather than a smooth glass pane.
See white powder? Classic Howlite. Real turquoise might have a bit of dust showing, but it won’t ever be white on the inside.
Plastic sounds dull. Resin is a little heavier and quieter - like a stone that’s been emotionally stunted. Glass has a sharp sound.
Howlite is smooth - unnervingly so. Almost slippery. Turquoise, even when polished, feels drier and more varied. It may show matrix (that’s the natural brown or black webbing) or even pitting. Nature’s not perfect. Run your finger over the lines, you should be able to feel the veins with your nail. If the ridges don’t match the looks it’s likely dyed.
Note: Some turquoise, like Sleeping Beauty, can be smooth and flawless—but legit. Look for reputable settings and provenance, this coloring is very rare, so be skeptical.
To check for rare types of turquoise, sometimes it’s easier to look at the company It keeps
If your ‘turquoise’ is nestled next to plastic coral and set in a magnetic mystery metal, assume it’s all costume drama. Real turquoise travels with classier company - sterling silver, gold, or Native American pieces. If the setting’s costume, the stone probably is too.
Finally, while you’re looking, note the temperature of the stone. Plastic stones are warm to the touch, Resin?Slightly cooler but still lacks that stone chill. Glass will start cool but warmup in your hands. Real stone should stay cool well past 5 Mississippi.
Yes, you’ll look slightly unhinged tapping a rock on your teeth, but it works. And your teeth, oddly enough, are better lie detectors than your eyes. Glass clinks. Plastic thuds. Howlite? Chalky. Tastes like school snacks. Odd, right? But it’s a surprisingly good test – just make sure you try it out at home first. No one wants to publicly admit they’re an amateur rock eater.
If your piece is beautiful, antique, signed, or set in actual precious metals. Please. put. the. stone. down.
Seriously. At this point, if it’s passed the other tests and looks the part, that’s probably good enough. If you still need to know for sure, take it to someone who does this for a living. Preferably one with a microscope, a degree, or at least a business card.
Too many stunning necklaces, Zuni inlays, and vintage cuffs have been scratched, scorched, or stabbed by well-meaning rock detectives with zero qualifications and way too much confidence. Don’t be that person.
Respect the piece. It survived this long without surgery. Let’s keep it that way.
Turquoise ranks 5–6 on the Mohs hardness scale. Howlite? A measly 3.5. That means a steel pin will scratch howlite, but turquoise should hold firm.
Use this knowledge carefully. Don’t start gouging your jewelry like you’re doing dental work on a rock. Try a hidden spot, gently. Just make sure you know when to stop, if it’s not scratching, congrats, it’s not howlite! Don’t keep digging like you’re looking for fossils.
This is a destructive test. Use it only on pieces you don’t care about—like bead lots, cheap costume jewelry, or mystery stones from a flea market bin
Heat a pin and touch it to a discreet spot. If it sinks in like hot butter, that’s resin or plastic giving up the game. Real turquoise doesn’t melt, well, not with normal heat sources, anyway.
Let’s be clear: faux doesn’t mean worthless. There are jaw-dropping faux turquoise glass pieces out there, think Miriam Haskell. Polcini brooches, Florenza, and Trifari. Some pieces of which, sell for hundreds. Dyed howlite too, when done well, can be vibrant, affordable, and perfect for beach days, festivals, or any occasion where you don’t want to cryover a lost stone. The key is knowing what you’re buying, and now you know what to look and listen for. So, go forth: tap things on your teeth. Squint at bead holes. Run your finger over the surface like you’ve got a geology degree and trust issues.
You’re not just buying jewelry anymore.
You’re running a tiny, fabulous investigation.